How to choose your ice climbing equipment?

As winter approaches and temperatures tend towards zero, the urge to escape to the high mountains is back. To prepare well for your next mountaineering trip, let's check the list of essential equipment for ice climbing together.

---

Mountaineering shoes

Equipped with crampons, a good pair of mountaineering shoes should offer you the comfort and warmth needed for this type of activity. For climbing, you'll need stiff soles to make the climb easier, save your fatigue, and transmit the force of your toes well to your footing in the ice.

Thermicity is another key element in choosing your climbing shoes. Of course, in these sub-zero temperatures, the cold attacks the extremities first and foremost. You should therefore get shoes with an insulating membrane to ensure that your feet stay warm! You can complete your equipment with high mountain socks, made of wool or technical textiles.

In addition, the waterproofing of the Gore Tex type shoe is also essential. If, on the icefall, your feet are sheltered, you must plan the approach and return (stream crossing, wet snow, rain...). A waterproof covering is essential on a breathable fabric base. Leather, for example, is a material that breathes while remaining waterproof.

Finally, between the equipment, shoes, crampons, backpack: the weight accumulates quickly and can spoil a great outing. Fatigue, pain, backache are some of the consequences. Choosing light shoes will therefore be a plus, both on the approach and on the ascent.

---

Mountaineering crampons

There are a wide variety of mountaineering crampon models. Each offers a particular feel and corresponds to a level of difficulty or experience.

Generally, crampons with 12 or more teeth are recommended, with those with 10 teeth being more suitable for traversing neve. The former, on the other hand, deploy all their skills on icefall climbing. Shorter, they are more stable. The front part is positioned vertically, allowing better anchoring in the ice. On this, two schools exist: those who prefer bi-points, and those who favour the monopoint.

The latter is, as its name suggests, a single off-centred point. Forged at the big toe, it offers a better striking force. Accuracy and penetration are therefore improved. On the other hand, the balance is less easy, because the support is also off-axis. This requires a bit of practice!

The two-pointed models give greater stability and a more secure balance. The grip is also better in bad snow. In addition, some models are adjustable. You can then change the orientation and positioning of the two front points.

---

What type of ice axes for icefall climbing?

The so-called ice tool is essential for icefall climbing. You'll need two ice tools, with a very curved shape that allows easy anchoring and unanchoring. Some have off-axis handles for better ergonomics and increased striking force. In addition, the teeth of the blade are serrated for easier penetration. Some ice tools even have interchangeable picks to adapt to the type of ice. As for the shape, a banana-style blade is ideal for hooking.

It's a good idea to test the grip, comfort of the handle, and ease of hooking before heading to the great outdoors. You could fit your handle with a specific grip for better handling and to protect it from the cold.

---

The mountaineering backpack

To carry all this gear to the summit, nothing beats a good mountaineering backpack. Be careful not to choose a volume that is too large, as it could be cumbersome in terms of both size and weight. A reasonable volume is around 20-30 litres. This allows you to carry the essentials without room for excess.

A mountaineering backpack must follow your every move. It should fit close to your body without hindering your mobility. Additionally, you’ll need one with easy access so you can retrieve the necessary gear while facing the ice wall.

A hip strap with an ice axe holder and a few slots for your tools will prove to be a real asset. Also, make sure there is no interference between it and your harness.

---

Climbing accessories

To climb an icefall, it's all the basic climbing gear that adds up to the mountaineering-specific equipment. Ice screws, climbing ropes, quickdraws, carabiners, and harnesses will fill your backpack.

When it comes to the harness, it's best to opt for a version with removable leg straps. Indeed, depending on the thickness of your outfit, you will need to be able to adjust the straps.

For the choice of ropes, you should go for models designed for mountaineering, as they are treated against humidity. A wet rope, or worse, a frozen one, is up to four times less resistant than a dry rope.

As for the ice screws, the models vary. Some climbers prefer those with built-in cranks, which allow for quick screwing but significantly increase the weight of the pack.

Finally, don’t forget a helmet for safety. No visor helmets—mountaineering requires a helmet with goggles or a mask to protect against ice shards.

Climbing icefalls requires safe and high-quality equipment. But above all, being comfortable with your gear and knowing how to use it, even in difficult conditions, is what matters most.