As an essential part of your ski equipment, ski bindings allow you to combine the pleasures of skiing with safety. Find out how to choose your ski bindings that is in perfect harmony with your needs.
Made up of a toe and a heel piece, the binding is the part that will hold your boot onto your ski. Inside each of these elements, springs will allow your boots to move depending on the release value and elasticity of your ski binding. This will determine at what point your boot will be released in the event of a fall. For maximum safety, ski bindings can eject boots horizontally or vertically or a combination of both. It is therefore essential to choose your ski bindings correctly to prevent accidents.
Nothing is more alike a ski boot than another ski boot, no? Wronggg! There are in fact different norms of boots and, before choosing your ski bindings, you need to make sure they will be compatible with your gear.
To help you in your choice, know that the different models are classified by the norm they're compatible with. This makes it easier to find your way around and to choose items that can be combined.
In the world of alpine skiing, the ISO 9462 alpine binding remains the most widespread and fits most ski boots. However, as soon as you switch to the world of ski touring, the models multiply and require specific ski boots and bindings.
Hybrid ski bindings
Hybrid ski bindings allow you to practice downhill skiing and ski touring with the same equipment. They increase safety compared to light touring bindings (called tech bindings) and therefore can be used on the slopes without any risk.
What about the more or less different new systems on the market: Grip Walk, MNC, WTR... Over time, different brands have brought new and more versatile binding systems. Salomon with WTR and MNC, Marker with Grip Walk are among them and it is not always easy to find your way around. To put it simply, the vast majority of brands have now adopted the Grip Walk system. It is compatible with this new type of sole that is more comfortable for walking and is therefore used on many models of alpine ski, freerando and touring boots. For the bindings of the Salomon group, you will now find the designation MNC (goodbye WTR), which stands for Multi-Norm Certified. These bindings accept all different soles (alpine norm, Grip Walk, WTR..).
The adjustment of your ski bindings is a must before heading out to the slopes. But did you know that not all bindings have the same range of hardness (release value range)? It is therefore necessary to choose a ski binding that can withstand the recommended release value you are going to calculate. After the brand name and model name, there is usually a number. This is the maximum release value that the binding will accept.
Then, in the characteristics, the range of accepted release values is given, for example 6-10, 4-12 or 6-14. To choose your ski bindings, it is therefore necessary to know the level of hardness you need. For optimal tightening, it is recommended not to use the minimum & maximum value of your bindings and to always leave two or three notches of latency below and above your release value in order to be able to refine the setting of your bindings or modify it in case of weight variation for example. So, if you are rated at 10, don't get 6-10 bindings. Your choice of ski bindings should be more in the 6-14 range, so that you have room to adjust the setting. Don't overdo it by aiming too high either. Above 16, these bindings are for very good skiers, or even for competitors.
Good to know: the ISO 11088 norm, the safety ally for the setting of your bindings
This is the one that governs everything related to the mounting, adjustment and control of the ski, binding and boot trio. It is therefore by following the recommendations of this international norm that the release value (hardness) of your bindings (also called DIN setting) will be evaluated before adjusting the toe-piece and the heel-piece.
To find out your release value, an initial "diagnosis" should be made by adjusting for the skier's gender, weight, height and boot length. Then the release value is set according to age, level, physical condition and skiing style. To help you find your way around and choose the right setting for your bindings, base yourself on the table in the AFNOR norm, which recommends a release value according to these multiple criteria.
DIN: the norm you must take into account
DIN is a German standardisation institution. It has standardised the release values. This certifies, for example, that a DIN 10 setting corresponds to the same value on all bindings. By misuse of language, we sometimes use the word DIN to refer to a release value.
Most of the time, when you buy slopes skis (standard alpine skis), the bindings are included. When you are a beginner or just want to peacefully enjoy skiing on the slopes, these integrated alpine bindings can be perfectly suitable for your use. However, to take full advantage of the flex performance of your gear, it may be worthwhile to choose ski bindings with a thrust, i.e. an extra spring in the heel-piece. This will allow the heel-piece to move back a few extra millimetres without releasing your boots too early.
Tip: how does elasticity work?
When you put your skis on, your bindings are set on 0. When the torsion inflicted on your binding reaches its release value, elasticity kicks in. This is the number of millimetres of boot movement that your binding will be able to withstand before your boots get released. As long as you do not get released, the springs will put back your foot in its original position.
If you intend to venture off-piste, it is also best to choose ski bindings that are perfectly suited to this practice. The main difference between downhill standard skis and freeride skis is their width. You will therefore need bindings that are perfectly suited to this specificity. If your bindings aren't wide enough, they won't be able to handle the pressure exerted by the boots when you're skiing in the powder, and the bindings will release your boots.
But width isn't everything. On pristine playground, the pressure exerted by the skier is greater. So you'll need sturdier bindings. Opt for bindings dedicated to freeride skiing, such as the Marker Jester and Griffon range, the Salomon STH or the Tyrolia Attack. All are hybrid (touring/freeride with Walk to Ride or Grip Walk systems) to enable access to untracked spaces safely.
What about the Pivot binding in all of this?
The ancestor of alpine bindings, the Pivot binding is making a strong comeback with freeride and freestyle enthusiasts, who praise its strength and the freedom of movement this binding system gives them. Indeed, its rotating pivot heel-piece adds a very nice degree of safety, as it also allows for a boot releasing aligned with the angle of your shin.
This is certainly not the main element to consider when choosing the right ski bindings, but the ski stopper is important nonetheless. It is always available for all models of alpine bindings and its width must obviously be adapted to that of your ski's waist since, to be effective, the ski break must be wider so that it can be caught in the snow in the event of a fall. It is thanks to the ski break that in the event of a fall and releasing of your boots, your skis will not glide down the slopes on their own, leaving you with your boots on trying to catch up with them as best you can. The good news is that most ski breaks are interchangeable. So, if the ones that come with your ski bindings don't seem to suit your needs, you can easily change them or have them replaced by one of our Ekosport skimen.
When choosing ski bindings, the first criterion to consider is to be sure that they are perfectly compatible with your boots and skis. Then it's all about adjusting them so that you can ski in style and safely of course.
The three key points to remember when choosing your ski bindings: