HOW TO CHOOSE YOUR MOUNTAINEERING ICE AXE?

An emblem of mountaineering, the ice axe is associated with great expeditions to the highest peaks, the ascent of north faces, and ice climbing. However, despite its adventurous image, it is used from the very first steps in mountaineering. From a one-time aid in glacier trekking to traction ice axes used in climbing, there is a range of models, each suited to a specific type of terrain. Here’s an overview of the different mountaineering ice axes and their uses​:contentReference[oaicite:0]{index=0}.

Anatomy of a mountaineering ice axe

While there are different models of mountaineering ice axes, their composition remains the same. They consist of​:contentReference[oaicite:1]{index=1}:

• A shaft that can be straight or curved;
• A pick (thin, thick, straight, or curved, with more or less serrated teeth);
• An adze (a kind of "shovel" for cutting or digging snow) or a hammer for placing pitons;
• A spike (the lower part of the shaft).

The shaft can be made of aluminum, wood, or carbon. Like most sports equipment, aluminum has the advantage of being affordable while still ensuring safety. Carbon, on the other hand, is much lighter, which is an advantage on long expeditions​:contentReference[oaicite:2]{index=2}.

The majority of picks are made of steel, known for its resistance to wear and tear. However, some lightweight ice axes use aluminum, which is very light. There are two categories of picks found in mountaineering: T (Type 2) and B (Type 1).
Type 2: Thicker and stronger pick (lower risk of breakage), suitable for mixed routes and more demanding climbs.
Type 1: Thinner pick with better penetration, typically used for ice climbing​:contentReference[oaicite:3]{index=3}.

On the opposite side of the pick, there is either an adze or a hammer. The choice depends on your needs. For snowfield activities, an adze is useful for clearing snow. For climbing routes, the hammer is used to reset pitons and ensure their security. The spike, located at the bottom of the shaft, is typically made of steel for durability​:contentReference[oaicite:4]{index=4}.

The different types of ice axes

Depending on its intended use, the shape and size of the mountaineering ice axe vary. To choose your mountaineering ice axe, you first need to determine your practice. There are five main categories​:contentReference[oaicite:6]{index=6}:

• Hiking ice axe;
• Lightweight ice axe;
• Technical ice axe;
• Specialized ice axe;
• Versatile ice axe.

The hiking ice axe is for glacier hikers and snow climbers who do not require major technical features (such as anchoring). The shaft is straight, or nearly so, as it is often used as a walking stick. It is longer than other types of ice axes, typically between 50 and 80 cm. With your arm extended, it should reach your ankle. The blade is slightly serrated and curves downward, with rounded teeth to prevent injury. The adze is used to clear snow, provided there is no ice​:contentReference[oaicite:7]{index=7}.

The lightweight mountaineering ice axe is more of an occasional aid than a primary tool. It is typically used in ski mountaineering races. Ultralight (around 300 g), it serves as a cane or emergency ice axe​:contentReference[oaicite:8]{index=8}.

The technical ice axe must be durable, with a steel pick. Shorter in length, this mountaineering ice tool has a curved shaft, allowing better anchoring in ice or steep sections. It is used on slopes ranging from 50 to 60 degrees, with sharper teeth and a thinner pick​:contentReference[oaicite:9]{index=9}.

Specialized ice axes are designed for a specific use. Among them are those made for ice climbing. These are very short (approximately 50 cm), with a highly curved shaft, offset handle, and a thin but strong pick. With their banana-shaped curve, they anchor and unanchor easily in ice. Many of these models allow for interchangeable heads to suit different ice conditions​:contentReference[oaicite:10]{index=10}.

Finally, the versatile mountaineering ice axe covers a wide range of activities. It usually retains the straight shaft of a hiking ice axe but features a sturdy head, thin pick, and sharp teeth. This is ideal for those wanting to explore different mountaineering disciplines before committing to a specialized tool​:contentReference[oaicite:11]{index=11}.

Choosing the right mountaineering ice axe means first determining how you will use it in real conditions. A tool adapted to your practice will be more ergonomic and efficient than a versatile model. Better anchoring, increased comfort, and safety: a good ice axe should feel like an extension of your hand​:contentReference[oaicite:13]{index=13}.